How to use metallic threads

For cross stitch or needlepoint

The following offers guidance for determining how much thread you may need to stitch your project. Knowing exactly how much thread you will need for a project is not an exact science. There are many factors that vary from project to project and stitcher to stitcher.

This info comes from stitchers who provided us with the information based on their projects. Stitching techniques and tension may vary from person to person, so you may want to stitch an inch or stitch a test area and calculate how much thread was required. Then use that measurement to guesstimate on your project area. We suggest adding an additional 10% to 20% to include a margin of error (variances in stitch techniques, whether you have to rip out, how much thread is used to start and stop, etc)

Keep in mind that specialty stitches take extra thread, so the comments below are only for Tent Stitch or the Cross Stitch. 

• NEEDLEPOINT: The formula for yardage calculation for TENT STITCH is The square inches to be worked x 1.5 = thread yardage needed. That is based on using 1.5 yards to complete a 1” square. So, calculate the square inches of the area you are stitching and multiply it times 1.5 to get the amount of thread in yards that you need.
• CROSS STITCH: On 18 count Aida, it took 95 inches of Very Fine #4 Braid to stitch a 1-inch square.
• CROSS STITCH: On 18-count Aida, it took 98 inches of Fine #8 Braid to stitch a 1-inch square 
• CROSS STITCH: On 14 count Aida,  it took 75 inches of Very Fine #4 Braid to stitch a 1-inch square
• CROSS STITCH: On 14-count Aida, it took 78 inches of Fine #8 Braid to stitch a 1-inch square

Below you will find the material content for Kreinik threads:

• Braid/Ribbon/Filament Hi Lustre colors: 62% polyester, 38% nylon
• Braid/Ribbon/Filament Holographic colors: 100% polyester
• Braid/Ribbon/Filament Vintage colors: 64% polyester, 36% nylon
• Braid/Ribbon/Filament Fluorescent colors: 80% polyester, 20% nylon
• Braid/Ribbon/Filament Basic colors: 65% polyester, 35% nylon
• Ombre colors: 65% polyester/35% nylon
• Micro Ice Chenille colors: cotton core, polyester metallic
• Cord, black core colors: 28% polyester, 72% rayon
• Cord, solid core colors: 37% polyester, 635 rayon
• Silk Mori: 100% spun silk
• Silk Serica: 100% filament silk
• Silk Bella: 100% filament silk

Test a metallic, silk, cotton, or rayon thread for bleeding

It's a potential disaster that every stitcher fears: a thread color bleeding. While most colors are safe, there are others with reputations: reds, oranges, greens for instance. What can you do if you've washed your needlework and discovered a bleed? Read on for tips from stitchers. We have not tested these, so you may want to try them on scrap stitching first*. 

Suggestions:

• "Prewash any thread that could possibly bleed. Let dry before using in stitching."
• "Soak the piece in ice cold water until the color starts to come out. Then, rub ice cubes over the area and put it back into fresh ice water and soak again. Repeat these steps using clean water until the area is clear." See Carina's Craft Blog here for her test of this cold-water technique. 
• "Rinse and repeat. Rinse the piece in very cold water, and allow it so sit for a few minutes. If the color doesn't start to come out by itself, then run an ice cube over the affected fabric until the color comes off."
• "If you see any signs of bleeding while you are washing your stitchery, stop washing, and start rinsing under running cold water right away. Rinse for several minutes and then let it soak in cold water." Click here for more information from Needlework Retailer on cleaning needlework.

*It's a good idea to have a test swatch on which you make a few stitches and wash to make sure a thread doesn't bleed. OR, cut a length of the thread and soak it in water. 

Jewelry makers and other fiber artists often choose thread by their width. Whether you’re working with wire, beads, needles, or general crafts, now you can choose the right Kreinik thread width for your project. 

mm means millimeter

KREINIK THREAD NAME + WIDTH

#32 Braid, basic colors 1.5mm
#32 Braid, fluorescent colors 1.4mm
#32 Braid, hi lustre colors 1.6mm
#32 Braid, cord colors 1.5mm

#16 Braid, basic colors .78mm
#16 Braid, fluorescent colors .87mm
#16 Braid, hi lustre colors 1.2mm
#16 Braid, cord colors .81mm
#16 Braid, Japan colors 1.6mm

#12 Braid, basic colors .61mm
#12 Braid, fluorescent colors .63mm
#12 Braid, hi lustre colors .65mm
#12 Braid, cord colors .60mm
#12 Braid, Japan colors .54mm

#8 Braid, basic colors .50mm
#8 Braid, fluorescent colors .57mm
#8 Braid, hi lustre colors .55mm
#8 Braid, cord colors .58mm
#8 Braid, Japan colors .43mm

#4 Braid, basic colors .35mm
#4 Braid, fluorescent colors .54mm
#4 Braid, hi lustre colors .32mm
#4 Braid, cord colors .30mm
#4 Braid, Japan colors .39mm

Facets 1.61mm
Petite Facets .98mm

Japan #1 .15mm
Japan #5 .39mm
Japan #7 .51mm

Which Kreinik metallic thread works best in Cross Stitch? Which Kreinik metallic thread can you use in a sewing machine? These selection questions and more answered below:

CARD MAKING, SCRAPBOOKING:

• Stitching on paper: Cord, Very Fine #4 Braid, Fine #8 Braid
• Ribbons: 1/16" Ribbon, 1/8" Ribbon
• Iron-on 1/8" Ribbon and Iron-on Medium #16 Braid

COSPLAY, COSTUMING, FASHION:

• See "Hand Embroidery" or "Machine Embroidery" lists (below)
• Iron-on 1/8" Ribbon and Iron-on Medium #16 Braid

CROCHET:

• Carry-along: Blending Filament, Ombre, Reflective Yarn
• Jewelry: Tapestry #12 Braid, Medium #16 Braid, Canvas #24 Braid
• Bead crochet: Fine #8 Braid, Tapestry #12 Braid

CROSS STITCH:

• Blending Filament (use by itself or combined with other thread like cotton embroidery floss)
• Cord (backstitching, couching)
• Very Fine #4 (on 16- and 18-count Aida or over two threads on 28-, 32-count linens)
• Fine #8 (on 14-count Aida, or over two threads on 28-count)
• Tapestry #12 Braid (12-count fabrics)
• Medium #16 Braid (11-count fabrics)
• 1/16" Ribbon (10- to 11-count fabrics)
• 1/8" Ribbon (6- to 8-count fabrics)
• Cross stitching on unusual materials, like pegboard, screens, etc? Go up to one of our larger Braids, such as Medium #16 Braid, Canvas #24 Braid, or Heavy #32 Braid); the larger the Braid number, the heavier the thread.

HAND EMBROIDERY: 

• Stitch in and out of the fabric: Cord (for very fine details), Very Fine #4 Braid, Fine #8 Braid
• Couch for surface embellishment: Medium #16 Braid, Canvas #24 Braid, Heavy #32 Braid, 3/8" Trim, Facets, Petite Facets, Micro Ice Chenille, Wired Braid, 3/8" Trim
• Ribbon embroidery stitches: 1/16" Ribbon, 1/8" Ribbon, 1/4" Ribbon, Easter Grass
• Dimensional, shaped stitches: 3/8" Trim with wire, Wired Braid

KNITTING: 

• Carry-along: Blending Filament, Ombre, Reflective
• Bead Knitting: Fine #8 Braid, Tapestry #12 Braid

MACHINE EMBROIDERY and QUILTING:

• In the needle: Cord, Japan #1
• In the bobbin: Ombre, #4 and #8 Braids, Cord
• Couched: Facets, Petite Facets, Micro Ice Chenille, Ribbons, Braids (all sizes), Wired Braid, 3/8” Trim, Cable, Japan #5, 7
• Iron-on 1/8" Ribbon and Iron-on Medium #16 Braid (for quilt embellishments)

NEEDLEPOINT:

• Blending Filament (if blending with other fibers) (also can be used on 40-count silk gauze)
• Cord (backstitching, couching)
• Cable (3-ply twist for specialty stitches on any canvas)
• Very Fine #4 Braid (blending on any canvas)
• Fine #8 Braid (18-, 24-count)
• Tapestery #12 Braid (18-, 14-count)
• Medium #16 Braid (14-, 13-count)
• Canvas#24 Braid (13-, 12-count)
• Heavy #32 Braid (12-, 10-count)
• Ombre (18-count canvas, or specialty stitches)
• Couched: Petite Facets, Facets, Micro Ice Chenille, 3/8” Trim, Wired Braid, Japan Threads
• Ribbons: 1/16” (24-, 18-count canvas); 1/8” (14-, 13-count); 1/4” (12-, 10-count), Easter Grass (any canvas)

PUNCHNEEDLE:

• Blending Filament (#1 needle)
• Very Fine #4 Braid (#1 and #3 needles)
• Fine #8 Braid (#3 needle)

PLASTIC CANVAS:

• Medium #16 Braid (14 count)
• Canvas #24 Braid (10-count)
• Heavy #32 Braid (7 count)
• 1/8" Ribbon (7-10 count)

MIXED MEDIA, CRAFTS, STRING ART, OTHER FIBER ARTS:

• All fibers

SAMPLERS:

• Cord (backstitching, couching)
• Very Fine #4 Braid (over two threads on 28-, 32-, 36-count linens)
• Fine #8 Braid (over two threads on 28-count linens)
• Cable (long stitches and specialty stitches)
• 1/16" Ribbon (woven stitches)

SASHIKO:

• Very Fine #4 Braid
• Fine #8 Braid
• Tapestry #12 Braid
• 1/16" Ribbon

SWEDISH WEAVING:

• Very Fine #4 Braid
• Fine #8 Braid
• 1/16" Ribbon
• 1/8" Ribbon

TEMARI:

• Fine #8 Braid
• Tapestry #12 Braid
• Japan thread
• 1/16" Ribbon

WEAVING:

• Warp: Ombre, Ribbons (basic colors), Braids (basic colors)
• Weft: Micro Ice Chenille, Ombre, Ribbons and Braids (any color)

We hate to discontinue any thread color, but sometimes it is required due to manufacturing problems (for example, if we can't get the raw material to transform it into your favorite Kreinik threads). You will find the list of discontinued colors below. If you have these in your stash, we recommend putting a mark on the label to indicate a discontinued color.

Important tips for stitchers who buy thread stashes on Ebay, at estate sales, and Goodwill/Salvation Army stores: 

• The thread dye lot most likely has changed. Mark those threads so you know and won't get caught running out mid project.
• Some of those threads may be discontinued. Google search or contact the manufacturer to double check before you use them in a project (and end up needing more). 

Discontinued Kreinik colors and substitution suggestions:

NM means no close match

• 003C Red Cord = 003 Red
• 005C Black Cord = 005 Black
• 007C Pink Cord = 007 Pink
• 008C Green Cord = 008 Green
• 011C Nickel Cord = 010HL Steel Grey
• 012C Purple Cord = 012 Purple
• 022L = 052HL Bronze
• 026L = 026 Amethyst
• 027L Orangeruptis = 027 Orange
• 029L = 029 Turquoise
• 031L Berry Red = 153V Vintage Burgundy
• 032C Pearl Cord = 032 Pearl
• 034 Confetti = NM
• 041 Confetti Pink = 044 Confetti Blue
• 041C Confetti Pink Cord = 044 Confetti Blue
• 042 Confetti Fuchsia = NM 
• 042L Optic Opal = NM
• 043 Confetti Green = NM
• 051C Sapphire Cord = 051HL Sapphire Hi Lustre
• 056F Blueberry = NM 
• 057F Grape = NM 
• 070 Mardi Gras = 5011 Elfin Green
• 080 Garnet in Miro Ice Chenille = Red is a bolder version
• 080C Garnet Cord = 080HL Garnet Hi Lustre
• 086C Fern = 4201 Sugar Cane
• 087C Meadow Grass = 089 Aspen
• 088C Lily Pond Cord = 4201 Sugar Cane
• 104C Colonial Gold Cord = 102C Vatican Gold Cord
• 195 Sunburst = 095 Starburst
• 202C Indigo Cord = 018 Navy
• 225C Slate Cord = 4204 Storm Cloud
• 2094HL Heather Hi Lustre = NM
• 235 Red Ember = 307 Deep Coral
• 271 Plum = 3223 Ametrine
• 664 Magenta Blue = NM 
• 3240 Opal = 095 Starburst
• 3508 Rhumba Green = 829 Mint Julep
• 3509 Cha Cha Verde = 008HL Green Hi Lustre
• 3540 Bolero Black = 005 Black
• 393 Silver Night = 622 Wedgewood Blue
• 4001 Green Tea = 4201 Sugar Cane
• 4002 Spiced Chai = 4202 Dusky Meadow
• 4003 Ginseng Gold = 4203 Cattail
• 4004 Earl Grey = 4204 Storm Cloud
• 4005 Sugar Cube = 102 Vatican Gold
• 4006 Rosehip = 007 Pink
• 4639 Light Aqua = 3214 Blue Zircon
• 5002 Pixiedust = NM
• 5004 Love Potion = 024L Fiery Fuchsia
• 5007 Brocade = 5006 Ore
• 5008 Leprechaun = 009 Emerald
• 5500 PInk Lemonade - 5700 Cotton Candy
• 5525 Lemon = 5725 Lollipop Lemon
• 5530 Rosemary Green = 4201 Sugar Cane
• 9132 Lemongrass = 5725 Lollipop Lemon
• 9300 Orchid = NM (closest pastel is slightly darker 093 Star Mauve)
• Easter Grass in 1/8" Ribbon size (Easter Grass still available in 1/16" and 1/32")
• Marine Blue in Micro Ice Chenille = NM
• Petite/Facets 012 = Petite/Facets 026
• Petite/Facets 029L = NM

"I need the Balger, which thread is it?" 

Balger was the name we used for our metallic thread line back in the 1970s/1980s. Today we have about 20 different threads in that line, but back then the number was much smaller. If your design uses that old term "Balger," we know it's probably Blending Filament, Cord, or #8 Braid. In order to figure out which of these three threads your project may be calling for, we need to look at how the thread is being used in the design.

If you have an older project — particularly a cross stitch project — check your chart or pattern for these potentially identifying factors:

This is a public service announcement to needleworkers everywhere. Share with your stitching friends. Help us spread the word that rubber bands are not good when it comes to textiles!

Keep rubber bands away from your threads. Never, ever,  ever ever ever wrap them around threads that have a silver content, such as Kreinik Japan Threads, or the "J" colors of Kreinik Braids and Ribbons (001J, 002J, etc). It may sound strange to some, but we have seen this over the years: people secure their threads on a spool by wrapping them with rubber bands. Not good. The sulphur or sulphur compounds in rubber bands will cause your thread to tarnish.

Fortunately, Kreinik's black spools were designed to have their own thread-end holder: tuck the thread into the notches at either end of the spool. 

You can even wrap the thread from one notch to another for added security.

If a Kreinik Braid or Ribbon color has the letter C in it—such as 002C, or 005C—that means it's a "corded Braid" or "braided Cord." This is a special kind of fiber that requires a little extra stitching care. Let's start with the core fiber...

Kreinik Cord is a single-strand thread that has a metallic covering tightly wrapped over a core (gimp). Imagine a very thin, wire-like metallic thread that is strong enough to be used in a sewing machine but thin enough to add a clean line to designs.

This Kreinik Cord is used to make Kreinik corded braids and corded ribbons. These heavier threads carry a "C" after the color number and have a nubby, real-metal appearance. Corded Braids are increasingly being used in place of real metal threads because they closely resemble them and are less costly.

Besides being an alternative to real-metal threads, corded braids are also used in a design when you want to add a nubby texture — such as the wheel on a locomotive. While basic metallic braids give a shiny finish, the nature of a corded braid makes it more subdued and texturized, thus opening up a world of design possibilities. Imagine using Kreinik Medium #16 Braid 002C Gold alongside Cord 002C Gold, for example; you will get two different textures from the same color.

Since the core fiber is a strong, wire-like thread, a corded braid can be slightly thicker or stiffer than a basic braid. So most corded braids are couched onto the surface of a design using a matching color of Kreinik Cord as the tacking thread. If you stitch in and out of a fabric with a corded braid (rather than couch it), then simply stitch carefully, slowly, and with a larger needle to open the hole in the canvas sufficiently.

Enjoy the corded braids when you are adding different textures to make your design look more realistic or exciting. They come in different braid sizes: Tapestry #12 Corded Braid colors are about .60mm thick, while Medium #16 Corded Braid colors are slightly thicker at .81mm thick. Choose the size that suits your chosen stitch and pattern.

Blending Filament is a one-of-a-kind thread that gives you a unique effect in your stitching. "There is nothing that can add more sparkle and pizzazz to your cross stitch than blending filament," says stitcher Bonnie Morrow. The hint of metallic adds light, interest and a 3-D effect. Is your project looking dull or flat? Blending Filament adds visual flavor without being over-the-top, just like a little spice adds flavor to your cooking.

One myth about Blending Filament is that it's difficult to use. While it may seem crazy to stitch with something akin to Christmas tree tinsel, the truth is that when you follow a few steps, it's not so hard. After all, a little time and effort IS worth the amazing results, whether you're starting a diet, crocheting an afghan, constructing a building, or adding sparkle to a stitched angel.

If you don't know how to use Blending Filament or if you get frustrated while using it, read on. Just a few tips will put the *sparkle * in your eyes.

5 Truths about Blending Filament

1. It is actually two threads: the metallic part, and a thin string wound "within" the metallic that lends support. You may notice these two threads at the end of your Blending Filament, where they separate slightly. Any "frayed" ends can be hidden into your stitches as you start and stop, or clipped off once your starting point is secured. If the separation bothers you, use a product called Fray Check to seal the end.
2. You CAN stitch with Blending Filament without the core string. Officially, we don't recommend it because it can make the filament prone to static and breaking. However, stitchers and designers tell us they occasionally remove the core from the flatter Hi Lustre colors and just take extra care to reduce static and breaking. So if the core REALLY bothers you, carefully separate it from the metallic and proceed with stitching.
3. It is made of a different material than cotton floss. It may sound obvious, but sometimes we expect all thread types to behave the same way — and most of us hate to slow down. Blending Filament has a different consistency and thus requires more patience. You cannot stitch as quickly with it as you can cotton floss because of the slippery-ness of the metallic material. That's the nature of the unique filament. If it continuously slips off your needle while you're stitching, knot it to the needle.
4. It's a delicate material, which is why some stitchers may find that it snaps or stretches. Blending Filament is a thin polyester material with slight elasticity. It is not as strong as silk. If your filament breaks or stretches while you are stitching, just adjust your tension (relax). This applies whether you are using Blending Filament for hand or machine embroidery.
5. If you prefer, you can use Blending Filament by itself, rather than combined with cotton floss in one needle. Blending Filament was designed to be combined with another thread type; that is what produces the random metallic effect in a design. However, if you don't like stitching with two different threads at once, then don't. Simply stitch your area in one type first (like cotton floss), then overstitch with Blending Filament by itself. It may sound like double work, but actually this is the easiest way to control the filament, control how much highlight or shimmer you want in your design, and control exactly where you want it. This way, you're the one in control, not the thread.

10 Things you May Not Know About Blending Filament

1. How do you get it started? The thread end is secured in a notch in the spool. Unwind the thread from the notch to start, and when you're done, secure the end in the notch again.
2. How do you control it? Stitch slowly and use short lengths, which are easier to manage.
3. Why did the designer call for it? It adds a SUBTLE metallic shimmer that makes a design more realistic or interesting. Use it in a design to replicate anything shiny in nature, or to add a HINT of whimsy, visual interest, and "bling."
4. Is Balger the same as Blending Filament? "Balger" was the name Kreinik used when it started manufacturing threads in the 1970s. We've gone beyond Blending Filament with many thread types now, so we use distinct names, like Very Fine #4 Braid. Blending Filament refers to our thinnest, tinsel- or cord-like metallic threads.
5. How many colors? Blending Filament comes in basic metallic, glow-in-the-dark, vintage, corded, and hi lustre colors. The hi lustre and vintage versions are flat for maximum light exposure. All together, we have over 100 Blending Filament colors available to you and designers.
6. Blending Filament can be affected by humidity. Is your climate very dry? Then your filament may have more static in it as you stitch. Some stitchers recommend using a product called Thread Heaven, or a slightly damp cosmetic sponge, to "tame" flyaway filament.
7. Don't try to use more than 2 strands of Blending Filament in one needle. There's just no need to. If you want a bolder metallic look, simply move up to a thicker thread, like Very Fine #4 Braid. Braid is used by itself rather than combined with another thread type in one needle.
8. It's not just for cross stitch and needlepoint. Its thinness and blending qualities make it useful in tatting, crochet, knitting, crazy quilting, fly fishing, collage art, even stitching on paper.
9. It's ideal for punchneedle. Use Blending Filament by itself in a 1-strand needle, or 1 strand of Blending Filament + 1 strand of cotton or silk floss in a 3-strand needle.
10. Blending Filament is sold worldwide. From Australia to Alaska, South Africa to Saskatchewan and everywhere in between, Blending Filament is used by creative people everywhere. Kreinik has a US and international Store Locator listing on www.kreinik.com.

Applications:

Blackwork, crewel, crochet, cross stitch/counted thread, doll making (by hand and machine), fly fishing, hardanger, knitting (by hand), lace making, machine embroidery/bobbin work, machine embroidery/in the needle, miniatures, needlepoint/canvas work, punch embroidery, silk gauze/Polysil embroidery, smocking, stumpwork, weaving, and many more.

Hand Embroidery:

The thin quality of Blending Filament allows you to create elements of subtle light reflection. It is often combined with cotton, wool or another thread type, in the same needle, to create a random metallic sparkle. The addition of one or two strands does not add weight to your thread, so you can use the needle size that accommodates the stranded cotton. Vary the amount of highlight or shimmer you want to add to a design by using one or more strands; use a single strand for the most subtlety or two strands for added effect.

Overstitching & Texture: 

There's more to Blending Filament than just 'blending,' however. You can also use Blending Filament by itself to overstitch, bringing a reflective highlight or glow to a particular spot. Also, use a single strand of Blending Filament by itself in half-cross stitches for backgrounds on fabric; it creates a slight texture and subtle shimmer.

Tips on using Kreinik Blending Filament in hand work: 

1. Use short lengths of thread — about 45cm (18 inches) or less — to avoid excessive abrasion when pulling the thread through the ground fabric or canvas. The more a strand is pulled through fabric or canvas, the more 'wear' it causes on the thread. Using shorter lengths will maintain the quality of the thread, plus reduce tangling as shorter lengths are easier to control (less knotting!). If you are stitching on fabric, use a needle large enough to 'open' the hole in the fabric sufficiently and allow the thread(s) to go through more easily; this reduces friction and fraying.
2. If combining Blending Filament with another thread type in a needle, you may wish to moisten the filament together with the other thread with a slightly damp, soft cosmetic sponge. This can help to control both thread types as they work together in your needle.
3. Stitch slowly with Blending Filament to achieve more control and uniformity in stitching.
4. Let your needle hang frequently to let the thread untwist and thus reduce knotting.
5. If using Hi Lustre Blending Filament, lay the filament flat and smooth as you stitch to allow maximum light reflection. Think of it as a tiny ribbon; using a laying tool can help prevent twisting, or simply use your finger to lay the thread.

Machine Embroidery: 

Blending Filament creates three-dimensional effects whether used in the needle or the bobbin of a sewing machine with specific embroidery patterns or free-motion techniques. It is ideal for art quilts and wearable art. Blending Filament also creates delicate reflective highlights in programmed patterns on embroidery machines. Kreinik offers an extensive color range to match fabric or mood.

Tips on using Kreinik Blending Filament with a sewing machine or serger: 

1. When using Blending Filament in the needle, try a Metalfil or Metallica needle. You will need to loosen the top tension and adjust the bottom tension; practice until you get a combination that works with your machine, stitches, and fabric choice.
2. When using Blending Filament in the bobbin for needle lace or other effects, experiment with different tension settings until you find a combination that achieves the look you want on your fabric. A 50m reel of Blending Filament fills a bobbin nicely.
3. You can also combine Blending Filament with other threads or use it alone in a serger. Estimate 10 times the length to be sewn for thread yardage when using without mixing with other threads.

Care:

Kreinik Blending Filament is hand or machine washable and dry cleanable. Cool water is recommended. Do not use bleach. It can also be tumble-dried on low setting. When ironing a finished piece containing Blending Filament, do not iron directly on the thread; use a cloth, and do not use steam.

Fine #8 Braid is possibly the most versatile metallic thread since it can be used by just about every creative technique. It is the perfect size for needlepoint, cross stitch, embroidery, crazy quilting, weaving, bead knitting, bead crochet, tatting, fly fishing, card making, Temari, Hardanger, and more. It was the first metallic developed by the Kreinik family in the early days of the thread company.

History

Doug Kreinik fills us in on a little history: "In the beginning, my parents, Jerry and Estelle Kreinik, looked at the market and saw that there was a need for a metallic for cross stitch and needlepoint." Estelle was a needlepoint enthusiast, which is how they got involved in the industry. "They first created #8 and #16 braids in 7 colors along with blending filaments. The #8 Braid could be used in both needlepoint and cross stitch," Doug adds. "Since then, #8 has been used in crochet, tatting, smocking, weaving, sewing, quilting, embellishing, rug hooking and even fly fishing bodies."

Now

Today we make #8 Braid—we don't get it from overseas or from another company—in our Parkersburg, West Virginia factory. It comes in 250+ colors including basic metallic shades, hi luster, vintage finish, glow-in-the-dark, and holographic. Corded #8 Braid is a bolder version made to resemble real metal threads.

If you haven't used Fine #8 Braid for your creative project, get a spool in your favorite color and try it. You can't hurt it and you will love the bold metallic effect in your design. It brings visual interest, light, and texture that simply makes projects better.

What you need to know about Kreinik Fine #8 Braid

1. SIZE: The number 8 simply refers to the number of raw strands we use to make the size (or weight). Fine #8 Braid is twice as thick as Very Fine #4 Braid, and half as thick as Medium #16 Braid.
2. WHY USE IT: To get a bold metallic look in a design (stronger light and visual effect than the whispy Blending Filament, for example). It can be used right alongside other types of fibers—in fact, that makes a design more interesting.
3. HOW TO USE IT: Straight off the reel. Just cut a length (about 15 to 18 inches) and go. Don't try to separate it or use more than one strand.
4. WHERE TO USE IT*: This thread was created to be the same thickness as two strands of embroidery floss. So it provides excellent coverage in cross stitch on 14-count Aida. It is also popular for needlepoint in tent stitch on 18-mesh canvas. 
5. NEEDLE SIZE: Make sure your needle is large enough to accommodate the thread, otherwise the metallic will shred as you stitch. We suggest Tapestry #22 or #24 for needlepoint and cross stitch. For embroidery or quilting on fabric, use a #20 Chenille needle.
6. CARE: This metallic can be washed by hand or machine. Tumble dry on low. Do not iron directly onto the metallic, use a press cloth.

* SIDE NOTE ON WHERE TO USE IT: These recommendations are not set in stone—feel free to use other thread sizes on these fabric/canvas counts if desired, or depending on your stitch selection. Some people prefer a lighter look on 14-count Aida, for instance, and instead choose to use Very Fine #4 Braid. Some needlepointers prefer thicker coverage on 18-mesh, so they select slightly heavier Tapestry #12 Braid. Experiment with your own preferences and design needs.