Ribbons and Flat Braids
Flat materials in 200+ metallic, holographic, and fluorescent colors. Ideal for bodies. Fray the ends for wings and tails. Versatile fibers for all kinds of lures.
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Kreinik Metallic Braids Color Card
See the fantastic colors and explore the creative options with panels of Kreinik thread colors—actual thread swatches for true color matching.
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Steeves’ Firefly Pattern
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Steeves FireflyDesigned by Harrison Steeves
Materials Needed:- Hook: #12, 14,16: Tiemco 5212, Orvis 1638, Mustad 94831
- Thread: 6/0 Black or Orange
- Wing Case: Kreinik 1/8” Ribbon Black Hi Lustre #005HL
- Body: Orvis 1/8” thick closed cell black foam, cut into 1/8” wide strips
- Underbody: 3-4 strands of peacock herl
- Butt: Kreinik Medium #16 Braid Glow in the Dark Lemon-Lime (Yellow) #054F
- Wing: Either 1/8” Kreinik Ribbon or Kreinik Heavy #32 Braid in Mallard #850 or 085
Tying Directions:
1. Wrap first half of hook shank with thread. Tie in wing case material (use about a 6 inch piece) to the bend of the hook (end of shank).
2. Wrap thread forward 2/3 length of hook shank, tie in foam strip and wrap backward to bend of hook, even with wing case material.
3. Tie in butt material (about a 6” piece) and wrap thread forward enough to allow two to four wraps of butt material forward (two on the smallest hook, and four or more on larger fireflies). Wrap butt material forward(3 wraps on a #14 hook), and tie down on top. Trim off excess butt material.
4. Tie in 3-4 strands of peacock herl in front of butt and wrap thread forward to within about 1/8” of hook eye. Wrap peacock herl forward and tie down. Trim off excess herl. Wrap thread back and then forward through herl for reinforcement.
5. Fold foam over and forward to form body, tie it down about 1/8”back from the eye of hook and trim to leave a head extending to or slightly over the hook eye. Save excess foam for more bodies.
6. Tie in winging material at the point where the head and body join. Wings should extend back no further than the butt. Trim forward portion even with front of head.
7. Separate winging material evenly on both sides of the body, fold wing case material forward and tie down. Trim wing case material even with front of head and save excess for more flies. Whip finish.
Note: You can substitute brighter colors of 1/8” Ribbon for the wing case such as 051F, 052F, 053F, 054F or 055F. These colors will make the fly easier to see in the water.
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Long Bridge Sally Pattern
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Long Bridge Sally
Designed By Dave Schmezer
Materials Needed:
- Hook: Mustad 79580 or 9672 : #6 - #12
- Thread: 6/0 - Color to match
- Head: Brass bead head of appropriate size
- Tail: Clump of marabou with about 10 strands of Kreinik Metallic Flash In A Tube™ in a color to match the 1/6" Ribbon listed next
- Body: Kreinik 1/16" Ribbon color suggestions: Chartreuse 015, Black 005, Star Yellow 091, Glow In The Dark Green 053F, Peacock 085 — or your choice of colors
- Kreinik Flash In A Tube in colors similar to 1/6" Ribbon — or your choice of colors
- Collar: 3-4 turns of folded saddle hackle or spey hackle on larger flies
Tying Directions:
- Install bead head.
- Begin tying thread behind the bead head, wrap thread base rearward until several turns before bend of hook, then return thread forward.
- Tie in marabou on top of hook shank, leaving gap between the bead and marabou. Marabou Marabou should extend 1-1/2 hook gaps past bend. Be sure to trim the marabou short of the bead head. You will need room wind the hackle later.
- Tightly wrap thread to rear just before the bend, then return forward.
- Tie in 8 to 10 strands of Kreinik Metallic Flash In A Tube™ on each side. Wrap thread to rear just before the bend, then return forward.
- Tie in Kreinik 1/16" Ribbon on top (still leaving a gap for the hackle). Wrap thread to rear just short of bend then, return return forward.
- Wrap Ribbon forward and tie off just behind the bead. Add a drop of head cement to lock the ribbon in, trim excess.
- Tie folded saddle hackle in by the tip, behind the bead head, with five or so tight wraps.
- Take three-four turns of hackle, stroking the hackle back as you wrap. Tie off, secure with several whip finishes and apply head cement to wraps.
Editor's Note: Dave says that you can tie this fly in different colors and sizes to catch just about anything that swims. I agree with Dave. I have tied this pattern in Kreinik Glow In The Dark Yellow color (#054F) to catch Hickory Shad, and in Purple (#026) to catch Smallmouth Bass.
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Sinking Japanese Beetle Pattern
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Sinking Japanese Beetle
Designed by Harrison Steeves, III
Materials Needed:
- Hook: #10 - Tiemco 3769, Orvis 1641, Mustad 3906
- Thread: 6/0 Olive or Green
- Body: Kreinik Heavy Braid in Mallard #850, Emerald #009HL
- Wing Case: Copper colored Swiss Straw or rafia
- Wing: Kreinik 1/8” Ribbon Mallard #850
- Head/Thorax: Kreinik Fine Braid Chartreuse #015
Tying Directions:
1. Wrap the rear half hook shank with thread.
2. Tie in Swiss Straw, use about a 4” piece. Tie in the Swiss Straw at the end of the hook, almost to the bend of the hook. Wrap thread forward to the middle of the hook shank.
3. Tie in two 9-10” strands of Kreinik Heavy Braid on each side of the hook shank. Tie them down by wrapping the thread backward to the same point at which the Swiss Straw exits the wraps. Wrap thread forward to about 1/16” behind the hook eye, half hitch (or whip finish) and cut thread.
4. Form the body of the beetle by using the overhand knot technique, passing the eye of the through the middle of the knot. Tie so that the 009HL strand form the back (top), and the 085 strands forms the belly (bottom). Use seven (7) knots to form the body on #10 hook. This will assure the proportions. When the body has been formed, tie down both body strands of material and cut. Note: When forming the knots, use PLENTY OF TENSION. If you don’t, the body looks really loose, and there won’t be enough room at the front of the hook to finish the fly.
5. Tie in the wing material, length extending back to the butt of the fly. Tie it in at the point where the body material cords were tied down and then wrap thread firmly toward, but not to the eye of the hook. Cut off the winging material piece extending forward and save for more wings. (use about a 6” piece - it’s easy tie in the correct length and then trim the forward portion. A 6 “ piece will tie a bunch of wings.)
6. Separate wing material into 2 equal halves and pull these laterally to the sides of the fly. I use a fine pair of tweezers for this, but a needle does fine.
7. Tie in about a 6” piece of Head/Thorax material - tie it in backwards to wing butts and on the side of the fly.
8. Fold Swiss Straw forward between wings to keep them separate, and tie down the Swiss Straw firmly from the wing butts almost to the hook eye. Trim to leave a small shelf of material pointing forward. Save the remainder of the Swiss Straw for more wing cases.
9. Wrap head/thorax material forward, 3-5 wraps depending upon how much space you have. After the last wrap, pull the material under the hook shank, tight into the eye of the hook and give it a couple of good thread wraps. Do not cut it.
10. At this point there is going to be some Swiss Straw visible, so tho finish the head neatly, first cock the fly at about a 45 degree angle in the vise. Bring the head/thorax material backward with the left hand and start building up the head with 6 wraps of thread. This will not only secure the head/ thorax material, but will give a neat head on the fly.