Instructions

Stitch gauge: 8 sc (across top opening of bag) = 1 inch

Ch 12, form into a ring with 1 sl st into first ch.

ROW 1: Ch 3, 35 dc in ring. End with 1 slip st in top of starting ch. Ch 1, turn.

ROW 2: Working in back lp of ea dc, work 1 sc in ea dc around. (36 sc counting starting ch of 1, as 1^st sc.) Turn.

ROW 3: Working in back lp only, 1 sc in ea sc. End with 1 sl st in 1^st sc. Do NOT turn at end of row.

ROW 4: Ch 3, sk 1^st sc, work in both lps of ea sc (1 dc in ea of next 3 sc, ch 3) 9 times, ch 3, 1 sc in ea of next 7 sc, sk last sc.

ROW 5: (Ch 3, 2 dc in center dc of next 3-dc block, ch 2, 2 dc in same st, [dc shell made] 9 times) ch 3, 2 sc in ch-3 sp, 1 sc in ea of next 7 sc, 2 sc in last ch-3 sp. (11 sc in solid block of sc at top of purse + 9 dc shells)

ROW 6: Ch 3, (shell in center of next shell, ch 6.) 9 times, ch 3, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea of next 11 sc, 2 sc in last lp. (15 sc in solid block + 9 shells).

ROW 7: (Ch 3, 9 dc in center of next shell, ch 3, 1 sc in ch-6 lp) 9 times, ch 3, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea of next 15 sc, 2 sc in last lp. (19 sc + 9-dc shells.)

ROW 8: (Ch 12, 1 sc in 5^th dc of ea 9-dc group,) 9 times, ch 3, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea of next 19 sc, 2 sc in last lp. (23 sc + 9 ch-12 lps.)

ROW 9: Ch 3, (12 dc in ea lp) 9 times, ch 3, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea of next 23 sc, 2 sc in last lp. (27 sc + 9, 12-dc groups.)

ROW 10: Ch 3, 1 dc in ea of next 3 dc, (ch 3, 1 dc in ea of next 6 dc) 16 times, ch 3, 1 dc in ea of next 3 dc, ch 3, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea of next 27 sc, 2 sc in last lp. (31 sc, + 17 groups of 6 dc + 3 dc to start and finish round.)

ROW 11: Ch 3, dc-shell in first sp, (dc-shell in next lp, ch 4) ch 3, 2 sc in last lp, 1 sc in ea sc, 2 sc in last lp. (35 sc + 18 shells.)

ROW 12: Ch 3, (shell in center of next lp, ch 5) 18 times, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea sc, 2 sc last lp, ch 3. (39 sc + 18 shells.)

ROW 13: (Ch 3, 2 dc in next shell, ch 4, 1 sc in 1^st ch of ch-4 ch, [1 picot made] 4 times in same shell, 2 dc in same shell, [1 large picot shell made] ch 3, insert hk under both ch lps of last 2 rounds and work 1 sc) 18 times, 2 sc in next lp, 1 sc in ea sc, 2 sc in last lp. (43 sc + 18 lge picot shells). End off thread.

Repeat rnds 1-13 to make second half of bag identical to the first.

Beads

Thread 76 beads onto a spool of Silk Serica thread. (Reserve 4 rem beads for drawstring handles.) Choose a tapestry needle that will pass through both the bead eye while large enough to thread needle with silk.

Crochet both halves together to include beads as follows:

Hold both halves together, one over the other, wrong sides facing to join. Ch 2, 1 sc in 1^st picot of front half of bag, ch 2, 1 sc in 1^st picot of back half of bag, ch 2, 1 sc in next picot of front half of bag, bring 1 bead upward on thread holding it firmly against the hk, sl st to hold bead in place, ch 2, 1 sc in next picot of back half of bag. Repeat, around the edges of both halves of bag, placing a bead after completing ea sc on front half of bag. Make sure that you are always joining the picots from one half of the bag to the corresponding picot of the second. You should have 4 beads for each picot in ea large picot shell. Rep until both sides are joined together leaving sc sections separate to form opening at top of bag. Do not cut thread. 

Edging:

Work around top opening of bag only using the strand of silk thread still in place:

RND 1: Ch 5, (sk 2 dc, 1 dc in next lp) twice, ch 5, 1 dc in sp between next 4-dc group, ch 5, sk next 2 dc, 1 dc in next lp, ch 5 (1 dc in next sc and in ea 3^rd sc around bag opening,) end with ch 5, 1 dc in last sp, ch 5, sk 2 dc, 1 dc between last 2 dc, ch 3, sl st in 3^rd ch of starting ch. (42 lps)

RND 2: Ch 3, (1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in 1^st lp, *ch 3, 1 sc in next lp, ch 3, dc-shell in next lp. Rep from * around. (21 dc-shells.)

RND 3: Sl st to reach next ch 3 sp in center of shell, ch 3, (counts as 1^st dc of 1^st shell only, complete lge picot shell as in row 13, *sk next 2 lps, 1 lge picot shell in ea ch 2-sp of ea shell of prev rnd. End with 1 sl st in 1^st st of 1^st shell, end off. Weave in all cut ends. 

Draw-string handles: make 4

Using same hk and silk thread, crochet a chain 32-inches long.

Turn, ch 1, sc into ea ch to end. Cut thread leaving 5-inch tails.

Starting at side seam of bag, thread strip in and out of the lowest row of shell spaces on one side of bag. Withdraw strip at opposite edge of side seam. Pull strip until even at both sides. Turn purse and repeat for back half of purse.

Staring at side seam of bag, thread 3^rd strip in and out of the row of shell spaces just above the first, taking care to alternate the spaces used with the previous strip. End at side seam. Rep for 4^th strip.

Pull strips evenly so they extend beyond the sides of the purse evenly. 

Close handles:

Take cut ends of silk on ea strip and using the needle, thread 1 bead onto the end of the silk. Rep for second strip on same side of bag. Join ends of strips by passing the needle through the eye of both beads 2 or 3 times as space allows in the bead hole. Cut rem thread ends and weave them into the sc portion of each strip. Rep for opposite of bag. Bag closes by pulling each dbl handle on ea side to gather. To open, pull gathers apart. Dry block by pinning purse and handles on blocking board. Be sure to use rust-proof pins to avoid leaving marks on silk. Cover with a damp cloth for an hour or so. Remove cloth and allow bag to dry thoroughly. 

Lining and interlining:

Choose matching or contrasting color of heavy satin for lining. Cut 2.

Choose a lighter weight in harmonious color for interlining. Cut 2. Do not use heavy satin for both layers or purse will become stiff and may lose its shape. 

Cut fabric using blocked purse as a pattern, allowing at least one-inch of seam allowance around the edge of the purse. Baste the two pieces of satin together, right sides facing. Turn right outside and drop lining into purse. Adjust seam allowances as needed to completely fill the purse without wrinkles. Remove satin lining from purse and stitch around by hand or machine to fit purse. Trim excess fabric in seam allowance. Turn right side out and press seams well around. Set aside.

Cut interlining using the same pattern shape as you used for the final shape/size of satin lining. Right sides facing, sew around making seam allowance 1/8” smaller than lining. This allows the weight of the contents of the bag to be borne by the interlining rather than to stretch the lace itself. Do not turn interlining inside out. Instead, drop it into the lining so seam allowances of interlining lie against the wrong side of lining. Use your hand to make sure both layers are even throughout. 

Last, turn the seam allowances of both lining and interlining to fit the last row of the sc crocheted portion of the bag. Manipulate so that both seam allowances face each other, leaving neat folds of each fabric layer at top. Pin with long silk pins around the opening of bag. Ease as needed to avoid tucks as lining is just a bit larger than interlining. When both layers are smooth and pinned around the bag’s opening, using matching silk thread and tiny whipped stitches, attach both fabric layers as one around the crochet portion of bag. Make sure not to catch the handle strips into your stitching otherwise the draw-strings will not be able to be pulled together to open or close. They must slide easily through the spaces of the lace.

Designer Sylvia Landman:  www.sylvias-studio.com